New Year

New year is celebrated by most people in France. Here at the church there are games (and food of course).

In this game, you have to blow the cups off the table with only the air in the balloon. There were red faces for more than one reason.

Time for more food!

Cordialement
Terry

Cognac

As you can see, we are enjoying some fine weather in between the showers. True, June does still have her coat on, it is only 14 degrees, but with the sun and little wind, it is certainly good enough to have the plat du jour here in Cognac.

And it was good to catch up with old friends in the church. Can it really be nearly 2 years since we were last here? The pastor's son is no longer a baby, Emma got married, and there is a new, much bigger church building being built. We booked ourselves in for the new year celebration.

But for now I have to finish my meal, tandory chicken, a desert, and glass of wine for under a tenner.

Perfect


Terry

A Colourful White Christmas

It snowed. A couple of days ago now, and it was heavy for a while Since then we have had more snow flurries and a little thawing during the day. The snow is still there, but it is having little effect as the roads are mainly clear now.

Early morning snow down our road.

We wondered if we should get a tree, just for the 2 of us. Probably not, but we did see these for sale, just to colour up your living room.

Trees with a difference

Troyes

France have their own Troyes, pronounced 'twus'. It is near by but we realised we had never visited. It has its own history, long and varied but no Helens, just a king once and plenty of invasions.

Part of the city over the canal.

 We parked near the canal and walked over to the city. In this part at least, there are lots of half-timbered houses (pans de bois to the French).

June

June and I were dressed for the cold, but in the event it was reasonably mild. The predicted rain held off and we stayed far longer that we had anticipated.

As you walk past the canal, now with bridges so low it cannot be used as such, there are statues at intervals, artistically placed and commemorating something or someone, as explained on a plaque near by.

Famous lady

I can't remember who this lady was (June says her name was Lilly) and it did not say why she was famous - perhaps for hats? But good for a picture anyway.

Old style house over shop.

 There were plenty of old houses, often over a shop. Some were prettier than others, none of them very straight. A spirit level or plumb line could have been of assistance by the looks of things, or perhaps the wood just moved and twisted over the ages? I am sure an 'expert' out there will put me straight.....

No one minds if the house is not quite straight.

Some are less straight than others!

After a while being outside, and despite visiting a church (which was colder inside than out) we finally headed for an indoor market, just to look around, and perhaps to warm up a little. There was an upstairs that afforded this view of the downstairs.

Indoor market

On our way back to the car we saw that the cathedral was the other side of the canal. Lots of old buildings on route, including this hotel- 5 star it said and certainly it was straighter than most of the buildings in the town.

You could stay at this hotel.
Despite the age, it is 5 star.

 In the cathedral itself was this homage to women. I loved the shadows so I have included this picture.

Honouring women in the cathedral.

An so onwards and out of the city. No photos, but we did find the museum of the Knights Templar in a little village near by called Payns. It is a small exhibition with a film being the most informative part. We were the only visitors late on Saturday just before closing and had the place and the attendant's ear to ourselves. Despite that she appeared to know little in addition to what we could read, possibly because it is all shrouded in mystery and confusion, legend and conspiracy.  An extract from Wikipedia (link above) reads "Around 1119, the French knight Hugues de Payens approached King Baldwin II of Jerusalem with the proposal of creating a monastic order for the protection of ... pilgrims." Hugues de Payens was from the village now called 'Payns', hence the location of the museum.

A good end to a lovely day out.

Rose, Birds and dry Lake

Catching up with my camera, I discovered loads of photos not yet recovered. So these are from 22nd October to yesterday, the 10th November.

Last of the summer roses

I am sure I could smell this rose when I put it on full screen. Click on it to enlarge it and see if the scent is still there for you? This was one of the last blooms in the garden before the cold of winter took hold.

Birdlife, now that they have found us

And Clare bought us a bird table. For a while the birds appeared to ignore it, but in the end they discovered where the food was. At first we attracted sparrows because we put out only bread. Then when the table held sunflower seeds, the tits appeared. They are difficult to photograph. They arrive, collect one seed, and fly off to eat it. To have 2 together, as in this photo, took some waiting time and lots of rejected photos. A bird in flight is just a blurred image!

Herons on the lake floor. It's dry again.

The lake is dry again. We are now convinced this is deliberate as none of the boats in this harbour were taken by surprise. And 'wading heron depth' is not boat friendly.

There, now you have caught up with us and the season is chilly.

The sound of music

Today was Sunday. Church. French style.
And today we ate together as usual.
But today there were three surprises between the main course and the desert.
It turned out that June was the third surprise - very much to her surprise! She found herself, very gamely, singing for her supper (ok- lunch).

Singers

The guitar is held by Nicola who is German and they are singing in English (which always helps). A little later they were joined by Françoise (French) and they continued in French. Fortunately Nicola is tri-lingual and June can read and sing in French after many months of practice.
They sounded fine!
I have refrained from putting on the short video clip (with sound); partly, but not entirely, because it is a large file. But if anyone wants a copy....
Terry

The artistic French

When the French visit,
they like to bring a present. Something regional is good, and to be completely proper, it should be home made!
So today our guest presented us with this gift of regional products in a tin from the area.
Beautiful and much appreciated, especially as it was so thoughtfully put together.
Something for the English to learn?
Terry

So what's in the box?

• Fig chutney with Provencal olives
• Olive purée with Provencal herbs
• Olive purée with Provencal basil
• Orange chutney with Provencal olives
• Tomato pesto with dried tomatos and Provencal herbs
• Basilic pesto with Provencal almonds and goat's cheeze

And to the side: raspberry, myrtle, red Earl Grey tea; and a chocolate & orange spread.
In the box are almond-marzipan sweets.

Pavlov's cat

Our cat is old now - rather stuck in her ways. She sleeps a lot and whilst she likes the outdoors, it's better when it is warmer and she rarely goes out without an adult.
So quite why she should be hungry is a little mysterious.

Cleo - working hard at being a cat, at eating,
and of course, sleeping.

For example, just today she was fed at the usual time. Morning, and again just before I came home in the evening. But we went out (urgent shopping you understand) and when we came back she was all animated to see us and demanding food.
I have a theory. That she associates our arrival with eating! This has conditioned her anticipation in much the way described by Pavlov with his dogs. I will try explaining that it is only ignorant dogs that are supposed to behave like this. Not cleaver cats.
I will let Pavlov's descendants know the result.

The Tree of Heaven

We have 7 of these in our garden. But we also have dozens of saplings in the grass, hedges, paths, and even the dry stone walls.

Our neighbours have some too. 

So this week, on our visit to the cottage we spent time pulling the saplings up. And we removed a dead hedge as we went.

June looked the species up on our return.

The Tree of Heaven is a weed masquerading as a tree that's pretty to look at in the spring. It is very hard to get rid of. It came from China.

There are male and female versions. The males send out suckers that grow round it. The females send out airborne seeds. The roots grow horizontal just under the ground, or into a wall, or under the house, etc.

They grow fast. Large trees can be hollow and will come down in a storm. They don't live too long (about 50 years) but in that time they can give rise to thousands of offspring.

They will grow anywhere. Rocks seam to be popular from our experience. The best place to grow them is in soft wet soil because then they are easy to pull up by the roots.

If part of the root is left in the ground, it will grow again. If you cut it and poison it, the poison must be applied in minutes of it being cut.

Talking of poison, the tree poisons the other plants round it. Hence the dead hedge with all the saplings in it. The Chinese use it to promote hair growth (among other things) but it is bad for your health in general. Smelling badly, as it does, it is also bad for asthma. This is probably why I was left a bit breathless after pulling up or cutting down about 50 saplings. Or it could just have been the quantity!

We have a quote from a tree surgeon for the removal of the mummy and daddy trees. They will become logs and at last be useful to us, probably for years to come!

But why on earth are they called the "Tree of Heaven"?

--

Terry Westoby
Website www.westobyweb.com web design service
Cottage: http://holidaycottage.westobyweb.com 1 bed cottage for rent, 4 people max.
Other Blog: http://1-lord.blogspot.com/ Christian news
Photos:  http://photo.westobyweb.com our faces & places

St Genevieve

This morning we walked up a track to find the St Genevieve chapel. It was not a planned thing, but we saw a sign to it and decided to follow the trail. It was steep and a little muddy, but it came out suddenly onto the top of the hills with splendid views.
St Genevieve must have been a little lonely - this is quite an isolated spot. There is a small building, far more than we were expecting, and a signpost indicating a pilgrim walker's route.

St Genevieve's chapel (right)

One of the panoramic views, which I take in sequence with my phone, had June just in the last shot. I warned her it was coming so that she could avoid getting in the view, but she walked in front of me. Her head in the left of the picture, very windswept because it was a very windy day, has greatly improved the picture.

Vines in the distance, and very little else (apart from a windswept June)

As usual, click on a photo for a better image.

The other side of St Genevieve's chapel, left, with the town of Couvrot at the end of the road.

We walked back down the way we came, in the nearby village it was a lot warmer.

Later in the day, June found herself at Blacy, and from the hilltop she could see familiar landmarks (radio mast and chimney not in view). Although on the other side of Vitry le François, she found she was at the other end of the pilgrim path, just 4km from this spot we visited in the morning.

Trouble a' t'Usine

The car industry in France is not selling enough cars - not surprising really with the economic situation. France has several ways to combat these situations, including 'partial unemployment' and everyone going on holiday.
Where I am working, there is also a more drastic solution and people are being laid off. Details are sill under negotiation as far as I know (I am not very involved, being a temporary employee anyway) and there are lots of ad hoc meetings taking place. Often at the works gate as in this photo. I have no idea what they do there, perhaps there is a spokesman with information or perhaps not. I had to drive through this crowd to go to work (after lunch) and they parted to let me through. All very polite and civilised, if a little chilly at the moment.
Going though a time when there are people being laid off is never easy. It appears to be handled a little differently to the times I have known when this happened in England. It is my hope that there will be people who retire, who get work elsewhere, and as few in a bad situation as possible. The French are very pragmatic and sensible so I have hopes that they will be successful, at least as much as possible, in this case.

The King at Ponthion

Let's go for a walk somewhere different.

12c church porch

The Champagne fields are nearby, and Vitry en Perthois is as close as any. But in the event we drove on to Changy, and then right towards Outrepont and then right to follow the sign that boasted a 12 century church.
The church was closed, but clearly very old and it had a lovely porch. We must return when it is open, Sundays 2 to 6 pm.
In the road in front of the church was a notice. It told you how old everything was, about the battle there, and about the village palace. That this village; in which the nursery school and the Marie are combined, and which is hard to find on a map even when you know it's there; that this village should boast a palace was intriguing. We set off on foot to find it.

The palace was somewhere in here

And find it we did. It's a green field (a wheat field when this map was photographed) and so I forgot to take a photo for the blog. But we were sure it was the correct site, there is a notice telling you all about it (about 12 words explaining it dates from about 725 and once housed the future Charlemagne).
Very interesting. Quite a big field too.
We wandered back to the car and the bats flew over our heads to tell us the sun had already gone down. On the way back there was a noticeable church lit up on a hill. It proved to be in Changy but when we turned down the church road we found everything fenced off. 'Graveyard works' was the excuse. There was nowhere to park and little sign of an entrance. Clearly this is a local church that people walk to. Home for supper then.

A Walk to Couvrot

Google Route

Today we went a little further out of town along the canal. I had checked that the route turns up at a small village, and so it did, just a few houses by the lock gate. The canal turned slowly left ahead and it was a lovely day so we carried on.

This time we arrived at a larger town and walked over the road bridge to see the name. Couvrot. A place we have been to many times in the car but never suspected we would walk there.

A check of the map on our return showed at was a 4km distance. We had taken far longer than the 48 minutes suggested, but then we stopped and enjoyed the views, strolled and took our time.

On the way back a boat emerged from the lock. We had had a hint of this event as we were walking out since the lock keeper had set off in his van along the tow-road. The 2 locks are 'manned' but there is only 1 'man'. As we returned the water by the lock was turbulent, unusual today since it was otherwise mirror-like. So we surmised the lock was in use. Sure enough, as we approached, a boat emerged, the "Follow Me", and duly chugged off in the direction of th Couvrot lock.

Glassy quality water,
as good as a summer's day

The 'Follow Me'

 

Canal toward Couvrot

Chaumont

Where shall we go this weekend? Well June remembered that Chaumont was on the way home from Mulhouse and that the roads were pretty on the way. She proposed to go in that direction and enjoy the views.
In the end, we did not find the views that we wanted to stop in and ended up in Chaumont itself.
Chaumont is quite a large town, with an old historic part that we inevitably ended up in. But not before we entered the town under the viaduct.

Le Viaduc - For scale, there are people about mid picture

[Le viaduc] is 600m long with 50 arches of 52m. It is one of the most remarkable works of 'art' from the mid 19th century in Europe, perhaps the world. Conceived by architect Emile Decomble, it was built to permit the train to get access to the high part of the town. The construction was completed in record time: 15 months to build 60,000 cu-m od maconary thanks to 2500 workers and 300 horses working night and day. The works became an economic engine for the main centre. Partially destroyed on the 31st August 1944, it was soon rebuilt to reestablish the railway. Majestic and imposing, it has become an emblematic figure for the town and has featured in many films.

Please

As you can see in the picture, it is possible to walk along the 1st level. Since we had stopped at the picnic spot from where this picture was taken, we also walked along. Until that is that June got a fit of vertigo about mid way and we returned with her clutching my arm!

So we ate and carried on into town, looking for the old quarter. It was relatively easy to find, despite the town being a higgledy piggledy mess of winding streets. I don't think we ever saw a straight street, all curved and often serpentined. The result of building on a hill perhaps.

Inside the church named 'Jean Baptiste'

We spotted the "John the Baptist" church. It was described on the outside as 'gothic', and as we opened the door to go in we were greeted with an extremely chill draft that set the tone for the inside perfectly. It was dark and gloomy. There were images of Christ's baptism, and several as this picture, of John's disembodied head. We left quite quickly for the much more pleasant warmth of the outside world. "Could you ever see people worshipping joyfully in there?" June asked. It took more faith than I have to say "Yes".

But the town has many pleasant features. Typical of the place are these turrets on the faces of many houses. Most are round, but some are square, and all house the staircase to the upper floors. Then there are the colourful windows and coal cellars along the winding streets. Photos below and in the photo album page.

Turret and start of staircase.

For scale, the doors are small.

A particularly good example of house and turret.

Jesuit Chapel - click for picture view

And then these was the Jesuit Chapel, now part of the college and sporting an art exhibition, but light and joyful and beautifully decorated as you can see. We spent a little time in here looking at the pictures (photographs) to the sound of Pink Floyd playing 'Dark Side of the Moon'.

Woodland facilities.

Was there a downside? Well in this town it advertised 'public toilets'. Despite the smell outside we decided to try them out, but only one problem, they needed a 10 cent piece to operate and we did not have one. Saved from what may have been inside, we were still in need and recalled a facility on the way home. Here it is.
You have a choice here. The cubicle or the woods. June chose the woods! which says it all.

Vitry la Ville

When you have been indoors most of the week, come Friday it is good to go out, even if it is just 20 minutes out of town. Just for somewhere to go, we visited Vitry la Ville. Some friends live there and so we thought we would see where it was.
We knew it was a village. What we did not expect was a château.

 

Château by the lake.

There was water all round the building and a small lake to the right. We started to walk round but the path came to an end allowing this photo but no further progress.
Whilst it is a nice photo, it would have been better if the marquee was not going up at the time.
The other side of this view is a church and graveyard, but more interestingly a family crypt for the local nobility. And it was open. From the commemorative plaques (all the same style despite spanning 2 centuries) it was clear that château life was hard as many died young. There were just 3 who lived to over 70.

Château front (the moat is straight, the panorama effect has curved it)

Gate protection

Since there is a moat all round, the front has a simple (modern) bridge and (ancient) gate.  The sides of the gate had complex spiky protection, the pieces numbered and bolted in place.
We took the opportunity to wander over the grounds and the churchyard before driving off down the tree lined drive. I had not come down this drive which passes through large (open) gates near the road, preferring instead the alternative side  entrance. However it was much more fun to go out that way, even if it was a little narrow.
I must find out what event is going to be put on in the marquee. It could just be the opportunity for a very pleasant evening out.

The tree lined drive

Without the marquee - how did I do that?

Walking in Vitry

This is the other part of the canal. And as we approached we noticed the yellow light flashing on the lock in the distance. Since the water was still pouring over the top of the gates, there was still a full lock. It gave us time to reach the bridge next to it as the gates closed at the other end.

Lock, bridge, and June

Just as we arrived the water stopped flowing over the top of the nearside gates. We watched as the water emptied and the boat was driven out of the lower water. Then as the lock closed and refilled. Although it appeared to be quick to us, if you have to negotiate lots of them I suspect you take a different view.
Francis was passing. Its 3 days to the sea in that direction, he said, pointing to where the boat had come from. I have no better information than that at this moment, and he offered no proof.

Walking out of Vitry

There are places we have not been. Through the tower block housing estate is one of them.  So we passed that way on Saturday. It was surprising. A little run down, but also open and not unpleasant. There were some local shops too, including a newsagent, a florist, and of course a baker.
And there was a very nice park to one side.
The park had play areas for children and lots of paved walks through the gardens. But we were first attracted by the high bank that ran along the left side. It looked like a canal, but from memory it was in the wrong place.
The canal is nearby, but this one appeared to head for the centre of town. We climbed the small bank and took a look. There was the canal. And just as it headed for the town it then stopped.
Indeed as we walked along, it became clear that this was just a large 'canal like' holding place for water. Connected to the canal proper by a pipe, there was also a block to stop any boats from using it. In the small inlet that it created before the navigation block, there were some fishermen.
We crossed to the other bank that allowed us to continue along the canal towpath. The canal turned right at this point so we had never seen beyond this point before. It was an easy walk to the lock gates. Just before the lock is a bridge over the river below.

The canal (right) over the river (left). [click image to see in viewer]

You can just see June ahead near the lock entrance.
The canal drops after this to the level of the river but does not join it. Instead it sweeps left then right on its way to Paris. We could have reached the next bend but the rain started just slightly and we took warning. Still, here is the view as far as we got.

Canal view round the first corner. [click image to see in viewer]

Whoever owns the house has a lovely quiet setting. There is much more of this house than is shown in this picture. Far left you can see the old walls of whatever it was that was once there. The canal passes these and swings right again.
But we turned back, passing through the park and the stream that is created from a bleed off the canal waters. We arrived chez nous just in time to avoid the heavier rain that started up.
I think we will be back.

Walking route - red trace.
You can see the 'dead end canal' next to 'Bas Village'.

UNESCO Champagne

As with my baker; I say 'yes' to the candidacy to UNESCO

 of the Champagne Houses, caves, and countryside.

I picked up a baguette today and it came in a packet advertising the Champagne area. See photo.

It appears that this area is wanting the fields, the Maisons Champagne, and their caves to be certified as unique.

Which they are: but only because here in France there are strict laws about where the grapes can be grown and still be called Champagne. You can make a champagne-like drink elsewhere, but you cant call it by the name. Perhaps it is just as good, perhaps not. Certainly some of the local products have done much to improve my opinion of 'real' Champagne.

But is it 'world heritage'?
Time will tell!

Terry

Sunday picnic

This Sunday we picniced at the lake. The sun was hot although the air temperature was only 17 degrees, in the sun it became too hot to sit out without shade.
The picture is an old one but it serves the purpose as the lake was glassy clear, even reflecting the fluffy small clouds quite clearly.
We sat for a while and watched the butterflies and dragonflies dance in the sun.
Even the icecream parlour was open in the afternoon.

Nice to relax!

Sunday lunch

Gâteau Française

Natalie joined us for lunch today. We provided the home cooking (ok June provided the home cooking), plus a bottle of Châteauneuf du Pape (which was lovely). And Natalie provided this lovely "gâteau" of fresh strawberries. The white bits are chocolate, and the rose is marzipan.

Then to the brocante at St Amand, a nearby village. Parking in a village when the whole world has gone to visit can be tricky. Certainly there was a long walk before we reached the first stalls. Still it was mainly to take a walk in a pretty village that prompted us to go. Since very few people had purchases, perhaps we were not alone!

There was however, a large version of one of June's favourite pictures, of the lavender fields. It was unpriced at the back and we had only 5 euros. We asked the price. The man appeared to know how much we had and since it matched, we bought it.

We came home to the sound of thunder but so far it has been a very dry storm. Nice to be home anyway.


Terry

Motoring

We were late!

Departing Vitry le François

We popped out to see the Marianne get away. We were sure they had just waited until this morning before setting off and we guessed the lock would be open to them about 9am. But we did not reach the canal until 9:30 and there they were, already through the lock and rounding the bend to leave Vitry.
We called and waved but we were not seen - except by the couple walking their dog in front of us.
So we watched them away and did some shopping and then decided that they could not be too far and wondered if we could catch them further down. We knew where they were heading, that it took 4 days, and involved 100 locks. They can't be far!
So I plotted a route along the D995 that roughly follows the canal. After Vitry en Perthois, we turned right and along the long straight road that parallels the long straight canal. The GPS in map mode showed us our position, the canal, and more helpfully the bridges that cross it. We selected a bridge that was crossed by a small country road and drove to the canal. There they were, about 1km further on just approaching the next bridge.

Bridge and Lock at Brusson

Doubling back we continued along our road. The next bridge would be too late, so we went for the next crossing after that.
Now as it happened the next crossing was the "main" road as it came into Brusson. The road went over the canal as the canal turned sharp left, and there was a lock right next to the road. Helpfully there was a small road along the canal on which we could park. We did so and walked round the bend to see how far away they were. Plenty of time!
Coffee in the warm September sun.

Skilful rope work avoids legwork

Then suddenly the lock gates sounded and started to empty. Most of the locks (not at Vitry) are fully automatic. Marianne had announced her approach and the lock was opening to be ready. Well before the boat rounded the corner, the lock was empty and open to receive them.

Marianne, as we were told, is a very heavy girl. She turned the corner reluctantly and chugged toward the gates. This time we were seen. I even had my photo taken. We watched and photographed the boat enter, tie up, and then the lock fill and open and permit them on their way. Slow, stately and majestic, - if a little smoky whilst  low in the lock with both gates shut.

Departing on a higher way

It felt good to see them going again, fun to watch the lock operate, and a little sad to see them disappear.
More photos on the photo album page.